Saturday, January 9, 2010
Christmas & Safari
The day after Christmas we took off on our safari … though there were a couple of minor mishaps when we first arrived and on the way home, all in all it was a great trip. We visited Masai Mara and Lake Nakuru, and spent most of the time doing game drives. We saw all the main animals except leopards, which are notoriously hard to spot. Here are the highlights, in roughly chronological order:
A cheetah on the chase (even though we couldn't see the running behind some brush, here the cheetah is after sadly not catching any of the antelope).
Zebra herds patiently waiting to cross the road:
A crowned crane dancing for another right in front of our van:
Having an unexpectedly romantic, candle-light dinner at the Mara Hippo Lodge:
"Honeymooning" lions - yes, we can actually attest to it!
The beauty of Lake Nakuru:
A rhino crossing the road right ahead of us - there was tall brush on both sides of the road, and we were looking in the trees for a chance to see leopards, so this rhino just like appeared right in front of us and was already on the other side of the road as you see by the time we got the camera up.
Impala herds – they are separated into the females with one male, and then a nearby heard of the rest of the males. Then, we saw a male challenging the other males in his herd in preparation to challenge the male with the females!
A giraffe herd very close around us, with two neckling (neck wrestling) though it looked like just for fun/practice fighting.
Flocks of flamingos in Lake Nakuru:
Tuesday, January 5, 2010
Exciting week (part II): A Ribe Wedding
An official/religious wedding is held in a church (or mosque, I presume?) and involves going all-out to throw a party for basically everyone you know. Part of the ceremony includes signing a marriage license, so the union is officially recognized by state law and the children and wife are taken care of in case anything happens to the husband. We have learned that the reasons people don’t always have official weddings to start is because they either want to have a “trial marriage” (i.e., like living together, see if they are compatible) or because they don’t have the money for a marriage license and big wedding.
In this case, the bride and groom had been traditionally married for about 10 years and they had three daughters. The wedding festivities started a few days in advance with many extended family members coming into town to do preparations. The day before the wedding, the women do a ridiculous amount of cooking and prepare a large feast for a party that night. All the groom’s family and friends (about 200 people) gathered at his village and had pilau and danced to the music of a live band and DJ. Its closest comparison in the US would be a rehearsal dinner plus bachelor party. I was told that the bride and her family were having a similar party at their home. At one point a group of women from the groom’s side took a bag of presents to the bride’s side. The bag contained personal and household items for the bride to use in setting up her home, so it seems her party could be compared to a bridal shower plus bachelorette party! The gifts they brought her may be considered part of the dowry, but it was probably not the dowry in its entirety.
(Side note: Dowries are still very common in Kenya, and they are either given to the bride’s father (Christians) or the bride herself (Muslims). Asma, our host, is Muslim and obviously thinks they have a better deal! Either cash or goods are given – the groom and recipient decide on a price (or the recipient names one!), and if necessary, the groom can pay in installments. Livestock is a common form of payment to the father, and I learned that 4 cows is a decent dowry (worth 120,000 shillings, or $1,600), but can even go up to $10,000! If the dowry is given to the bride, she might get furniture or other things for the home plus some cash to do some personal shopping.)
The party went late on Friday night, and most of the time the women and men were separated. I (Lesley) got pulled on to the dance floor a number of times by the older ladies who thought it was hilarious to teach me to dance, while unfortunately Chris was stuck with a group of men promising some of the food that never arrived (the men were distracted by the local brew). Finally tired Lesley and hungry Chris found each other and left “early” at around midnight. Others stayed up most of the night dancing and then enjoying mountains of mahambri (triangular shaped sweet bread – like mild doughnuts) in the morning, another wedding tradition. The village women even sent up a tray of mahambri to our house!
After the wedding everyone headed to the village to begin the party, but we were pretty hungry and knew that the food would be a while in coming, so we ducked by our house on the way for a snack and rest. We got to the reception later and discovered we missed some traditional dance performers but were in time for some delicious biryani (goat stew with rice) and the rest of the festivities. It was rather impressive to watch the men cook the food in huge pots and a team of about 30 young men running around serving everyone on big trays. There were probably 500 people there – I know they had to borrow dishes from everyone in the village!
One thing that surprised us was that there appeared to be party planners who took care of the decorating, tents, chairs, flowers, etc. In the US we would never dream of cooking that much food for a wedding, but would likely do our own decorating if we were on a tight budget. However, here they cook their own food but hire others to decorate! I think there is a correlation to how we live our lives, though – these coastal women are fantastic cooks but don’t have very decorated homes, whereas in the US it’s rather vice versa.
Soon we saw a band starting to set up and got excited, but our hosts told us that the dancing wouldn’t begin for a few hours. Everyone takes a bit of a rest in the afternoon (since the night before they went to bed very late, if at all), and then in the evening the bride and groom do a first dance to kick off another late-night party. So with this in mind we headed home for a rest and our weekly Skype date with Lesley’s family. However, after changing out of wedding clothes and relaxing with our host family, we all crashed for a bit of a nap and then didn’t feel like going back down the hill again. We later learned that Asma actually woke up around 2 am and decided to rejoin the party! Needless to say, most of Ribe slept the entire next day.
For us, the wedding was quite a cultural experience, but unfortunately there was a lot we didn’t understand and in which we couldn’t fully participate. Most of the people in the village who typically take us under their wing to explain things were pretty occupied with arranging the festivities, feeding and entertaining 500 people, and cleaning up after them! Nevertheless, we extended congratulations to our friend Dicky, his “new” wife and their families :-)
Ps. I may not be entirely accurate in my understanding of Kenyan weddings, or this may only be applicable to the coastal area where we live. So please don’t make any generalizations, and feel free to correct me if you happen to know more than I do!